CHAGRIN FALLS: Ohio's New England

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So you want to go to New England, but you’re afraid of running into Teddy Kennedy or John Kerry? Try Chagrin Falls close to Cleveland. Nestled in the hills of northeast Ohio on the border between Cuyahoga and Geauga Counties, Chagrin Falls is about as close to New England as you can get within a 60 mile radius of Youngstown. They film movies here, folks. It is a stunner, and the numero uno place where my wife and I go to get away for a few hours on the weekend. (Wait a minute…there’s Dennis Kucinich. Ohhhh Nooooo!!!!).
Chagrin Falls was built on the Chagrin River next to….guess what… the falls!!!! It is a four -seasons kind of town that offers its own delights any time of the year. In the summer, the entire village is strolling the streets, eating ice cream or candy purchased at the Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop located right above the falls. The falls and the river are actually kind of impressive, and you can take the frame steps down into the gorge for an up close and personal. Across the street is the village park, lined with benches and trees and a playground filled with people enjoying a sunny day or a cool evening with their kids and dogs. And these are classy dogs. Where’s Norman Rockwell when you need him?
Autumn is probably the busiest time of year. No matter how you get there, the way into the village is tree lined and the foliage is spectacular. At Christmas, the village dials Hollywood for its absolutely perfect Christmas decorations, and the village stores do their fair share in helping you feel the love. Even the dead of winter offers its delights, especially if you are a tad moody on a gray winter’s day. Stop in at the Gamekeeper’s Tavern and have a drink in its convivial bar, or a hearty lunch or dinner in the restaurant. The atmosphere is as warm as it is cold outside.

Did I mention the Gamekeeper’s Tavern? The restaurant is located in The Inn at Chagrin Falls, which offers a diverse range of overnight accommodations for those looking for a weekend getaway, at prices that are surprisingly reasonable for the Cleveland area. (This is a rapidly growing regional hospitality group owning several venues. It recently purchased and renovated the Welshfield Inn on Rt. 422 about 15 miles east towards Warren). The restaurant is terrific and will be the subject of a coming review in Youngstown Eats. Another place to enjoy drinks and dinner is Blake’s (a Hyde Park Group restaurant) which is located overlooking the falls. Both of these places tend to be a tad pricey, but the food is good, and you can’t beat the ambience. There are also numerous other foodie choices located throughout the village, from pizza to burgers, to suit all price points and tastes.
Our favorite thing to do in Chagrin Falls, besides eating, is to shop. This is a great place for the ladies. Unlike many of these trendy areas which end up being nothing more than an extension of the local mall and attendant national chains, most of the boutiques are operated by locals. (No Pottery Barn or Williams Sonoma here). Chico’s is the most glaring exception. Prices run the gambit. The ladies will always find something. Find Me is a more pricey choice that has found favor with a number of Tippy wives (I mean Canfield women), but it has really good sales.
While the ladies go one way, the guys can head to several clothing stores catering to men. But I would skip all of them and go to Chagrin Hardware. How they keep inventory at this place is beyond me. You can spend an hour just looking at all of the different things this place sells, some of which I suspect have been there since the town was founded. Those that only shop at Home Depot don’t know what they are missing. This place alone is worth the trip.
Street parking is plentiful. Blake’s offer valet parking if you are desperate at dinner time, but it usually isn’t a problem.
Take the Ohio Turnpike to the Route 44 exit. Go north on Route 44 about 10 miles to Route 422. East on Route 422 (it is 4 lanes here) to Route 306 (the Bainbridge exit). Turn right off the exit; then take an immediate left onto Chagrin Road into Chagrin Falls. Allow an hour to get there, about 2 hours to shop and 2 hours for drinks and dinner. If you have some time, Breezewood Gardens is located in Bainbridge on Route 306 just north of Chagrin Road, and is worth the stop, especially in the spring and fall (Christmas is fabulous at this place).

Pittsburgh's SouthSide Works

To contact us Click HERE
Pittsburgh is one of my favorite cities…and one of my favorite things about my favorite city is the neighborhoods. Anyone who has attempted to get around Pittsburgh knows that the hills make it nearly impossible to get from here to there unless you know exactly where you are going. Add the rivers and bridges to the mix, even those who live there have established enclaves unto themselves, creating neighborhoods that are individual destinations. Pittsburgh’s Southside is one of those neighborhoods.

Pittsburgh’s Southside is geographically located between the Monongahela River to the north and Mount Washington and the Southside Slopes to the south. The main drag is East Carson Street in which there are three main subdivisions. Station Square is the furthest west of the various developments, located at the end of the Smithfield Street Bridge. As you drive to the east, you will encounter a gritty, eclectic neighborhood with second hand bookstores, tattoo parlours, antique stores, head shops, and restaurants to suit every taste and pocketbook, mostly local. This is a fun area, but is rapidly gentrifying as evidenced by increasing property values. Both of these, especially the two lane East Carson corridor, are worth separate trips to explore and enjoy.

At the top of the East Carson Street corridor, where two lanes turn into four, is the brand new SouthSide Works, located along the river. On its face, it resembles Legacy Village in Cleveland, much smaller, and Easton in Columbus, much bigger. Where it differs is that it was actually built into pre-existing buildings associated with a steel mill formerly located on the property. For the most part, it maintains an industrial feel, as do most of the new developments being built the further east you drive along East Carson Street.

For some reason, the developer opened the area in stages. In the beginning, there wasn’t a whole lot there. But progress has been steady, and as new buildings and stores have opened up, it is a pleasant place to walk around and enjoy, especially on a warm summer’s evening. All of these areas are defined as “mixed use”, in which the developer tries to intermingle condo housing, offices, and retail. Some of the efforts succeed, some of them don’t. But the nature of the Southside neighborhood is pushing this to success. If you want to live in the Southside but don’t want to have to put a ton of money into renovating the very old, existing housing stock, and would like to have a place to park your car, this is the place to go.

The SouthSide Works is built around a town square, the center of which boasts a Cheesecake Factory which can be described as nothing less than a Greek temple. When you walk into the square, you feel like you should pray to it. Surrounding the square are various establishments, including a Cineplex, and various other restaurants such as Claddagh Irish Pub, which is one of my favorite places. Upscale restaurants include the Hot Metal Grille (currently closed for renovations) and McCormick and Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant.

There is no major retail anchor such as Macy’s located here. But there is an assortment of smaller retailers, some of which have come to be standard in these types of developments such as the Z Gallerie and Sur la Table Kitchen Store. I really like its version of the Joseph-Beth Booksellers chain, which tends to get some big name people into the establishment to sign books, especially Pittsburgh sports figures.

Big things are in store for the SouthSide Works. Approval and financing have just been granted for a $10.5 million 17 dock project giving river access to the development, as well as a major hotel and spa to be constructed on the opposite side of East Carson Street. When built, this area will become a major hub of Pittsburgh activity and recreation. In the meantime, it’s worth a visit. There is ample parking on the street and several decks. One word of warning, parking is paid for at vending machine type apparatii that can be a bit intimidating and don't always work.
The SouthSide Works
East Carson at 27th Steets
1-877-977-1880

Veteran's Housing in West Ridge, 1946-1947

To contact us Click HERE

A few months ago I wrote about an example of Defense Housing in Rogers Park built for war workers in 1942.  These were the result of strict Federal guidelines permitting only defense-oriented projects to receive priority use of building materials.  With the end of the war in sight by 1944 the country began to prepare to absorb about 16 million returning veterans.  These soldiers had left in the middle of a decade-long housing shortage, and would be returning to all parts of the country, not just areas that had benefited from wartime construction. 

Below is a draft of an article intended for the upcoming issue of AREA Chicago.  It will probably change a bit once I get comments from the editors.
In September of 1946 the Chicago Tribune printed an article announcing plans for a 92 unit development intended for WWII veterans on 3.6 acres on Ridge Avenue, north of Devon. At the time this was a sparsely developed area, dotted with the single family frame houses and small truck farms which comprised much of the early character of West Ridge.

The architect was listed as Edwin H. Mittelbusher of Howard T. Fischer & Associates, Inc. Mittelbusher served as the Assistant Chief Architect for the Chicago office of the Federal Housing Administration from 1940 to 1945. Howard Fisher was the founder of General Housing, Inc. and pioneered the development of pre-fabricated housing. He served as the director of the development board of industrial housing for the National Housing Agency in 1946-1947. In short, this development was designed by people skilled at working within a bureaucracy.


Damen-Ridge Garden Apartments, 1946.  Perspective view from Ridge looking Northwest.

The project itself consists of eight two-story brick veneer buildings with hipped roofs arranged around green inner courts. The outer courts accommodate parking areas. The buildings are a restrained version of the Colonial Revival, with modern touches, such as concrete sun shades on the first floor corners and entrance stairs illuminated with large glass block windows. They were constructed as a combination of 4 and 5 room rentals. This project was initiated under the Veteran's Emergency Housing Program (VEHP), but between the time these buildings were planned and when they were completed the VEHP became functionally obsolete.

The Veterans Emergency Housing Program was developed and proposed by Wilson Wyatt, former mayor of Louisville, Kentucky, at the direction of President Truman. The initial goal was to create 2.7 million housing units within two years to serve veterans, many of whom returned to crowded conditions and shared housing situations. To accomplish this wartime price and wage controls were intended to be maintained and priority was given to housing development through a series of initiatives. The bill establishing the VEHP was signed into law in May of 1946.

Six months later Republicans took control of Congress and eliminated much of the economic controls, resulting in a sharp increase in costs in response to pent-up demands. The program had been responsible for over 1 million housing starts in 1946, but many stood half-constructed due to shortages of building materials. Soon a home that would have sold for $6000 in 1945 was priced at $8,000. This was at a time when many veterans were marrying and beginning a family. Rather than buy a home at an inflated price many chose to find rental housing. This is the era reflected by the buildings in West Ridge constructed specifically for the returning veterans.


2212-30 W. Farwell and 2213-31 W. Morse, 1946.

The construction of these brick buildings was advertised in the Chicago Tribune in November of 1946.  The architects and builders are listed as Charles and Arthur Schreiber, who established their firm in 1938 and later went on to design many modernist structures in the Southwest.  These 4 and 5 room rentals were intended to accommodate 74 veteran families.  They are similar to earlier courtyard buildings in the neighborhood, but with large sunken courts and parking along the alley.  The restrained details, portal windows, and limestone door surrounds suggest the Moderne style, which lent itself to construction on a budget. 

6102-6122 N. Hamilton, 1947.

In February of 1947 the Chicago Tribune published an article about these three buildings, which were constructed as cooperative housing for veterans and designed by architect Clarence Johnson. They're traditional in form and ornamentation, including decorative entrances, corner quoins, water tables and limestone details. These are located on wide lots but are quite shallow due to the cemetery immediately west. The cooperative ownership structure is unusual, and the article claims that this is one of Chicago's first cooperative apartment developments. Titles to these buildings were conveyed to a corporation, and each veteran buyer purchased shares of that corporation. Cooperative ownership was (and is) rare in Chicago, and has been largely eclipsed by condominium ownership. Of the three developments examined here, this is the only one which wasn't intended as a straight rental property.

While I don't intend this to be a comprehensive look at veteran's housing in Chicago (or even in West Ridge), it does provide some examples of the types of development which were feasible immediately following WWII. And in some ways it sets the stage for the suburban explosion of the 1950s, when affordable single family homes became widely available, changing the character of the American landscape.

Sources

1. The AIA Historical Directory of American Architects, 1956. Accessed online at http://communities.aia.org/sites/hdoaa/wiki/Wiki%20Pages/1956%20American%20Architects%20Directory.aspx
2. Chicago and Evanston Vet Apartment Units Approved. Chicago Daily Tribune; Sept. 8. 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. NA
3. Work Started on Three New Flat Buildings. Chicago Daily Tribune; Nov.10, 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. 43
4. Finish Homes in Early Vets’ Co-op Project. Chicago Daily Tribune; Feb. 23. 1947. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. WA.
5. To Hear Only Thunder Again: America’s World War II Veterans Come Home. Mark D. Ellis. Lexington Books, 2001. Accessed through Google eBooks.
6. The Veterans Emergency Housing Program. William Remington. Law and Contemporary Problems, Vo. 12, No. 1, Housing (Winter, 1947), pp. 143-173. Accessed through JSTOR.

Curly

To contact us Click HERE

Maybe I should begin defining the 2013 Me by incorporating curlers. I wonder if you can still get those big plastic numbers in pastel colors. I could crank up my whole miserable head, coat it with an atrocious amount of hairspray, and cover the terrifying behemoth with one of those filmy hairnets. But I wouldn't call it a hairnet, I'd call it a scarf. Imagine me in the discount grocery with my hairnet and hulking winter coat and boots--a domestic Medusa. I'd be at once mythical and real.

How beautiful is that?

*  *  *

The sweetest face?

To contact us Click HERE

The Goat and I celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary in November. To commemorate the occasion, the Goat gave me a gift.

"ooh!" I exclaimed as he handed me the wrapped package.

Inside were three bags of m&m's, about six or seven ounces each. But these weren't like other m&m's. They had little pictures on them--pictures of me and the Goat!


The m&m's won't last forever, we all know this. No matter how long they do last, however, one thing's for sure: eating m&m's with your picture on them never ever ever gets old.



* * *

CHAGRIN FALLS: Ohio's New England

To contact us Click HERE

So you want to go to New England, but you’re afraid of running into Teddy Kennedy or John Kerry? Try Chagrin Falls close to Cleveland. Nestled in the hills of northeast Ohio on the border between Cuyahoga and Geauga Counties, Chagrin Falls is about as close to New England as you can get within a 60 mile radius of Youngstown. They film movies here, folks. It is a stunner, and the numero uno place where my wife and I go to get away for a few hours on the weekend. (Wait a minute…there’s Dennis Kucinich. Ohhhh Nooooo!!!!).
Chagrin Falls was built on the Chagrin River next to….guess what… the falls!!!! It is a four -seasons kind of town that offers its own delights any time of the year. In the summer, the entire village is strolling the streets, eating ice cream or candy purchased at the Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop located right above the falls. The falls and the river are actually kind of impressive, and you can take the frame steps down into the gorge for an up close and personal. Across the street is the village park, lined with benches and trees and a playground filled with people enjoying a sunny day or a cool evening with their kids and dogs. And these are classy dogs. Where’s Norman Rockwell when you need him?
Autumn is probably the busiest time of year. No matter how you get there, the way into the village is tree lined and the foliage is spectacular. At Christmas, the village dials Hollywood for its absolutely perfect Christmas decorations, and the village stores do their fair share in helping you feel the love. Even the dead of winter offers its delights, especially if you are a tad moody on a gray winter’s day. Stop in at the Gamekeeper’s Tavern and have a drink in its convivial bar, or a hearty lunch or dinner in the restaurant. The atmosphere is as warm as it is cold outside.

Did I mention the Gamekeeper’s Tavern? The restaurant is located in The Inn at Chagrin Falls, which offers a diverse range of overnight accommodations for those looking for a weekend getaway, at prices that are surprisingly reasonable for the Cleveland area. (This is a rapidly growing regional hospitality group owning several venues. It recently purchased and renovated the Welshfield Inn on Rt. 422 about 15 miles east towards Warren). The restaurant is terrific and will be the subject of a coming review in Youngstown Eats. Another place to enjoy drinks and dinner is Blake’s (a Hyde Park Group restaurant) which is located overlooking the falls. Both of these places tend to be a tad pricey, but the food is good, and you can’t beat the ambience. There are also numerous other foodie choices located throughout the village, from pizza to burgers, to suit all price points and tastes.
Our favorite thing to do in Chagrin Falls, besides eating, is to shop. This is a great place for the ladies. Unlike many of these trendy areas which end up being nothing more than an extension of the local mall and attendant national chains, most of the boutiques are operated by locals. (No Pottery Barn or Williams Sonoma here). Chico’s is the most glaring exception. Prices run the gambit. The ladies will always find something. Find Me is a more pricey choice that has found favor with a number of Tippy wives (I mean Canfield women), but it has really good sales.
While the ladies go one way, the guys can head to several clothing stores catering to men. But I would skip all of them and go to Chagrin Hardware. How they keep inventory at this place is beyond me. You can spend an hour just looking at all of the different things this place sells, some of which I suspect have been there since the town was founded. Those that only shop at Home Depot don’t know what they are missing. This place alone is worth the trip.
Street parking is plentiful. Blake’s offer valet parking if you are desperate at dinner time, but it usually isn’t a problem.
Take the Ohio Turnpike to the Route 44 exit. Go north on Route 44 about 10 miles to Route 422. East on Route 422 (it is 4 lanes here) to Route 306 (the Bainbridge exit). Turn right off the exit; then take an immediate left onto Chagrin Road into Chagrin Falls. Allow an hour to get there, about 2 hours to shop and 2 hours for drinks and dinner. If you have some time, Breezewood Gardens is located in Bainbridge on Route 306 just north of Chagrin Road, and is worth the stop, especially in the spring and fall (Christmas is fabulous at this place).

Pittsburgh's SouthSide Works

To contact us Click HERE
Pittsburgh is one of my favorite cities…and one of my favorite things about my favorite city is the neighborhoods. Anyone who has attempted to get around Pittsburgh knows that the hills make it nearly impossible to get from here to there unless you know exactly where you are going. Add the rivers and bridges to the mix, even those who live there have established enclaves unto themselves, creating neighborhoods that are individual destinations. Pittsburgh’s Southside is one of those neighborhoods.

Pittsburgh’s Southside is geographically located between the Monongahela River to the north and Mount Washington and the Southside Slopes to the south. The main drag is East Carson Street in which there are three main subdivisions. Station Square is the furthest west of the various developments, located at the end of the Smithfield Street Bridge. As you drive to the east, you will encounter a gritty, eclectic neighborhood with second hand bookstores, tattoo parlours, antique stores, head shops, and restaurants to suit every taste and pocketbook, mostly local. This is a fun area, but is rapidly gentrifying as evidenced by increasing property values. Both of these, especially the two lane East Carson corridor, are worth separate trips to explore and enjoy.

At the top of the East Carson Street corridor, where two lanes turn into four, is the brand new SouthSide Works, located along the river. On its face, it resembles Legacy Village in Cleveland, much smaller, and Easton in Columbus, much bigger. Where it differs is that it was actually built into pre-existing buildings associated with a steel mill formerly located on the property. For the most part, it maintains an industrial feel, as do most of the new developments being built the further east you drive along East Carson Street.

For some reason, the developer opened the area in stages. In the beginning, there wasn’t a whole lot there. But progress has been steady, and as new buildings and stores have opened up, it is a pleasant place to walk around and enjoy, especially on a warm summer’s evening. All of these areas are defined as “mixed use”, in which the developer tries to intermingle condo housing, offices, and retail. Some of the efforts succeed, some of them don’t. But the nature of the Southside neighborhood is pushing this to success. If you want to live in the Southside but don’t want to have to put a ton of money into renovating the very old, existing housing stock, and would like to have a place to park your car, this is the place to go.

The SouthSide Works is built around a town square, the center of which boasts a Cheesecake Factory which can be described as nothing less than a Greek temple. When you walk into the square, you feel like you should pray to it. Surrounding the square are various establishments, including a Cineplex, and various other restaurants such as Claddagh Irish Pub, which is one of my favorite places. Upscale restaurants include the Hot Metal Grille (currently closed for renovations) and McCormick and Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant.

There is no major retail anchor such as Macy’s located here. But there is an assortment of smaller retailers, some of which have come to be standard in these types of developments such as the Z Gallerie and Sur la Table Kitchen Store. I really like its version of the Joseph-Beth Booksellers chain, which tends to get some big name people into the establishment to sign books, especially Pittsburgh sports figures.

Big things are in store for the SouthSide Works. Approval and financing have just been granted for a $10.5 million 17 dock project giving river access to the development, as well as a major hotel and spa to be constructed on the opposite side of East Carson Street. When built, this area will become a major hub of Pittsburgh activity and recreation. In the meantime, it’s worth a visit. There is ample parking on the street and several decks. One word of warning, parking is paid for at vending machine type apparatii that can be a bit intimidating and don't always work.
The SouthSide Works
East Carson at 27th Steets
1-877-977-1880

Veteran's Housing in West Ridge, 1946-1947

To contact us Click HERE

A few months ago I wrote about an example of Defense Housing in Rogers Park built for war workers in 1942.  These were the result of strict Federal guidelines permitting only defense-oriented projects to receive priority use of building materials.  With the end of the war in sight by 1944 the country began to prepare to absorb about 16 million returning veterans.  These soldiers had left in the middle of a decade-long housing shortage, and would be returning to all parts of the country, not just areas that had benefited from wartime construction. 

Below is a draft of an article intended for the upcoming issue of AREA Chicago.  It will probably change a bit once I get comments from the editors.
In September of 1946 the Chicago Tribune printed an article announcing plans for a 92 unit development intended for WWII veterans on 3.6 acres on Ridge Avenue, north of Devon. At the time this was a sparsely developed area, dotted with the single family frame houses and small truck farms which comprised much of the early character of West Ridge.

The architect was listed as Edwin H. Mittelbusher of Howard T. Fischer & Associates, Inc. Mittelbusher served as the Assistant Chief Architect for the Chicago office of the Federal Housing Administration from 1940 to 1945. Howard Fisher was the founder of General Housing, Inc. and pioneered the development of pre-fabricated housing. He served as the director of the development board of industrial housing for the National Housing Agency in 1946-1947. In short, this development was designed by people skilled at working within a bureaucracy.


Damen-Ridge Garden Apartments, 1946.  Perspective view from Ridge looking Northwest.

The project itself consists of eight two-story brick veneer buildings with hipped roofs arranged around green inner courts. The outer courts accommodate parking areas. The buildings are a restrained version of the Colonial Revival, with modern touches, such as concrete sun shades on the first floor corners and entrance stairs illuminated with large glass block windows. They were constructed as a combination of 4 and 5 room rentals. This project was initiated under the Veteran's Emergency Housing Program (VEHP), but between the time these buildings were planned and when they were completed the VEHP became functionally obsolete.

The Veterans Emergency Housing Program was developed and proposed by Wilson Wyatt, former mayor of Louisville, Kentucky, at the direction of President Truman. The initial goal was to create 2.7 million housing units within two years to serve veterans, many of whom returned to crowded conditions and shared housing situations. To accomplish this wartime price and wage controls were intended to be maintained and priority was given to housing development through a series of initiatives. The bill establishing the VEHP was signed into law in May of 1946.

Six months later Republicans took control of Congress and eliminated much of the economic controls, resulting in a sharp increase in costs in response to pent-up demands. The program had been responsible for over 1 million housing starts in 1946, but many stood half-constructed due to shortages of building materials. Soon a home that would have sold for $6000 in 1945 was priced at $8,000. This was at a time when many veterans were marrying and beginning a family. Rather than buy a home at an inflated price many chose to find rental housing. This is the era reflected by the buildings in West Ridge constructed specifically for the returning veterans.


2212-30 W. Farwell and 2213-31 W. Morse, 1946.

The construction of these brick buildings was advertised in the Chicago Tribune in November of 1946.  The architects and builders are listed as Charles and Arthur Schreiber, who established their firm in 1938 and later went on to design many modernist structures in the Southwest.  These 4 and 5 room rentals were intended to accommodate 74 veteran families.  They are similar to earlier courtyard buildings in the neighborhood, but with large sunken courts and parking along the alley.  The restrained details, portal windows, and limestone door surrounds suggest the Moderne style, which lent itself to construction on a budget. 

6102-6122 N. Hamilton, 1947.

In February of 1947 the Chicago Tribune published an article about these three buildings, which were constructed as cooperative housing for veterans and designed by architect Clarence Johnson. They're traditional in form and ornamentation, including decorative entrances, corner quoins, water tables and limestone details. These are located on wide lots but are quite shallow due to the cemetery immediately west. The cooperative ownership structure is unusual, and the article claims that this is one of Chicago's first cooperative apartment developments. Titles to these buildings were conveyed to a corporation, and each veteran buyer purchased shares of that corporation. Cooperative ownership was (and is) rare in Chicago, and has been largely eclipsed by condominium ownership. Of the three developments examined here, this is the only one which wasn't intended as a straight rental property.

While I don't intend this to be a comprehensive look at veteran's housing in Chicago (or even in West Ridge), it does provide some examples of the types of development which were feasible immediately following WWII. And in some ways it sets the stage for the suburban explosion of the 1950s, when affordable single family homes became widely available, changing the character of the American landscape.

Sources

1. The AIA Historical Directory of American Architects, 1956. Accessed online at http://communities.aia.org/sites/hdoaa/wiki/Wiki%20Pages/1956%20American%20Architects%20Directory.aspx
2. Chicago and Evanston Vet Apartment Units Approved. Chicago Daily Tribune; Sept. 8. 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. NA
3. Work Started on Three New Flat Buildings. Chicago Daily Tribune; Nov.10, 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. 43
4. Finish Homes in Early Vets’ Co-op Project. Chicago Daily Tribune; Feb. 23. 1947. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. WA.
5. To Hear Only Thunder Again: America’s World War II Veterans Come Home. Mark D. Ellis. Lexington Books, 2001. Accessed through Google eBooks.
6. The Veterans Emergency Housing Program. William Remington. Law and Contemporary Problems, Vo. 12, No. 1, Housing (Winter, 1947), pp. 143-173. Accessed through JSTOR.

CHAGRIN FALLS: Ohio's New England

To contact us Click HERE

So you want to go to New England, but you’re afraid of running into Teddy Kennedy or John Kerry? Try Chagrin Falls close to Cleveland. Nestled in the hills of northeast Ohio on the border between Cuyahoga and Geauga Counties, Chagrin Falls is about as close to New England as you can get within a 60 mile radius of Youngstown. They film movies here, folks. It is a stunner, and the numero uno place where my wife and I go to get away for a few hours on the weekend. (Wait a minute…there’s Dennis Kucinich. Ohhhh Nooooo!!!!).
Chagrin Falls was built on the Chagrin River next to….guess what… the falls!!!! It is a four -seasons kind of town that offers its own delights any time of the year. In the summer, the entire village is strolling the streets, eating ice cream or candy purchased at the Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop located right above the falls. The falls and the river are actually kind of impressive, and you can take the frame steps down into the gorge for an up close and personal. Across the street is the village park, lined with benches and trees and a playground filled with people enjoying a sunny day or a cool evening with their kids and dogs. And these are classy dogs. Where’s Norman Rockwell when you need him?
Autumn is probably the busiest time of year. No matter how you get there, the way into the village is tree lined and the foliage is spectacular. At Christmas, the village dials Hollywood for its absolutely perfect Christmas decorations, and the village stores do their fair share in helping you feel the love. Even the dead of winter offers its delights, especially if you are a tad moody on a gray winter’s day. Stop in at the Gamekeeper’s Tavern and have a drink in its convivial bar, or a hearty lunch or dinner in the restaurant. The atmosphere is as warm as it is cold outside.

Did I mention the Gamekeeper’s Tavern? The restaurant is located in The Inn at Chagrin Falls, which offers a diverse range of overnight accommodations for those looking for a weekend getaway, at prices that are surprisingly reasonable for the Cleveland area. (This is a rapidly growing regional hospitality group owning several venues. It recently purchased and renovated the Welshfield Inn on Rt. 422 about 15 miles east towards Warren). The restaurant is terrific and will be the subject of a coming review in Youngstown Eats. Another place to enjoy drinks and dinner is Blake’s (a Hyde Park Group restaurant) which is located overlooking the falls. Both of these places tend to be a tad pricey, but the food is good, and you can’t beat the ambience. There are also numerous other foodie choices located throughout the village, from pizza to burgers, to suit all price points and tastes.
Our favorite thing to do in Chagrin Falls, besides eating, is to shop. This is a great place for the ladies. Unlike many of these trendy areas which end up being nothing more than an extension of the local mall and attendant national chains, most of the boutiques are operated by locals. (No Pottery Barn or Williams Sonoma here). Chico’s is the most glaring exception. Prices run the gambit. The ladies will always find something. Find Me is a more pricey choice that has found favor with a number of Tippy wives (I mean Canfield women), but it has really good sales.
While the ladies go one way, the guys can head to several clothing stores catering to men. But I would skip all of them and go to Chagrin Hardware. How they keep inventory at this place is beyond me. You can spend an hour just looking at all of the different things this place sells, some of which I suspect have been there since the town was founded. Those that only shop at Home Depot don’t know what they are missing. This place alone is worth the trip.
Street parking is plentiful. Blake’s offer valet parking if you are desperate at dinner time, but it usually isn’t a problem.
Take the Ohio Turnpike to the Route 44 exit. Go north on Route 44 about 10 miles to Route 422. East on Route 422 (it is 4 lanes here) to Route 306 (the Bainbridge exit). Turn right off the exit; then take an immediate left onto Chagrin Road into Chagrin Falls. Allow an hour to get there, about 2 hours to shop and 2 hours for drinks and dinner. If you have some time, Breezewood Gardens is located in Bainbridge on Route 306 just north of Chagrin Road, and is worth the stop, especially in the spring and fall (Christmas is fabulous at this place).

Pittsburgh's SouthSide Works

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Pittsburgh is one of my favorite cities…and one of my favorite things about my favorite city is the neighborhoods. Anyone who has attempted to get around Pittsburgh knows that the hills make it nearly impossible to get from here to there unless you know exactly where you are going. Add the rivers and bridges to the mix, even those who live there have established enclaves unto themselves, creating neighborhoods that are individual destinations. Pittsburgh’s Southside is one of those neighborhoods.

Pittsburgh’s Southside is geographically located between the Monongahela River to the north and Mount Washington and the Southside Slopes to the south. The main drag is East Carson Street in which there are three main subdivisions. Station Square is the furthest west of the various developments, located at the end of the Smithfield Street Bridge. As you drive to the east, you will encounter a gritty, eclectic neighborhood with second hand bookstores, tattoo parlours, antique stores, head shops, and restaurants to suit every taste and pocketbook, mostly local. This is a fun area, but is rapidly gentrifying as evidenced by increasing property values. Both of these, especially the two lane East Carson corridor, are worth separate trips to explore and enjoy.

At the top of the East Carson Street corridor, where two lanes turn into four, is the brand new SouthSide Works, located along the river. On its face, it resembles Legacy Village in Cleveland, much smaller, and Easton in Columbus, much bigger. Where it differs is that it was actually built into pre-existing buildings associated with a steel mill formerly located on the property. For the most part, it maintains an industrial feel, as do most of the new developments being built the further east you drive along East Carson Street.

For some reason, the developer opened the area in stages. In the beginning, there wasn’t a whole lot there. But progress has been steady, and as new buildings and stores have opened up, it is a pleasant place to walk around and enjoy, especially on a warm summer’s evening. All of these areas are defined as “mixed use”, in which the developer tries to intermingle condo housing, offices, and retail. Some of the efforts succeed, some of them don’t. But the nature of the Southside neighborhood is pushing this to success. If you want to live in the Southside but don’t want to have to put a ton of money into renovating the very old, existing housing stock, and would like to have a place to park your car, this is the place to go.

The SouthSide Works is built around a town square, the center of which boasts a Cheesecake Factory which can be described as nothing less than a Greek temple. When you walk into the square, you feel like you should pray to it. Surrounding the square are various establishments, including a Cineplex, and various other restaurants such as Claddagh Irish Pub, which is one of my favorite places. Upscale restaurants include the Hot Metal Grille (currently closed for renovations) and McCormick and Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant.

There is no major retail anchor such as Macy’s located here. But there is an assortment of smaller retailers, some of which have come to be standard in these types of developments such as the Z Gallerie and Sur la Table Kitchen Store. I really like its version of the Joseph-Beth Booksellers chain, which tends to get some big name people into the establishment to sign books, especially Pittsburgh sports figures.

Big things are in store for the SouthSide Works. Approval and financing have just been granted for a $10.5 million 17 dock project giving river access to the development, as well as a major hotel and spa to be constructed on the opposite side of East Carson Street. When built, this area will become a major hub of Pittsburgh activity and recreation. In the meantime, it’s worth a visit. There is ample parking on the street and several decks. One word of warning, parking is paid for at vending machine type apparatii that can be a bit intimidating and don't always work.
The SouthSide Works
East Carson at 27th Steets
1-877-977-1880

Pictured Within - Music and Lyrics by Jon Lord

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"It is certainly no coincidence that Jon chose to reflect Elgar’s paean to the love of friends and family in his own very personal music.

This song was among the music heard at Jon’s funeral, played by myself and sung by the incomparable Miller Anderson for whom it was originally written."



Recorded From Deep Purple In Concert With The London Symphony Orchestra Live At Royal Albert Hall.Singer: Miller Anderson, Conductor: Paul Mann.

Here is Roger Glover's reflection:

"A bittersweet year. It was in the studio in Nashville that we heard about Jon. It was a real blow to the body, even though we expected it. Stories and thoughts of him flooded the following weeks as the enormity of the loss sank in. Back in England we said goodbye to Jon with great dignity, the service was sadness made beautiful with music. When Jon first gave me Pictured Within, I wept at the beauty of it. At his funeral I wept again at the sadness of it. Such moving music. Music that has the power to stir emotions that run deep. He changed my life. I am a lucky man."

References:

Pictured Within « Jon Lord – The Official Website http://buff.ly/R642oh
Wait A While « Jon Lord – The Official Website http://buff.ly/T8HG3P

Veteran's Housing in West Ridge, 1946-1947

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A few months ago I wrote about an example of Defense Housing in Rogers Park built for war workers in 1942.  These were the result of strict Federal guidelines permitting only defense-oriented projects to receive priority use of building materials.  With the end of the war in sight by 1944 the country began to prepare to absorb about 16 million returning veterans.  These soldiers had left in the middle of a decade-long housing shortage, and would be returning to all parts of the country, not just areas that had benefited from wartime construction. 

Below is a draft of an article intended for the upcoming issue of AREA Chicago.  It will probably change a bit once I get comments from the editors.
In September of 1946 the Chicago Tribune printed an article announcing plans for a 92 unit development intended for WWII veterans on 3.6 acres on Ridge Avenue, north of Devon. At the time this was a sparsely developed area, dotted with the single family frame houses and small truck farms which comprised much of the early character of West Ridge.

The architect was listed as Edwin H. Mittelbusher of Howard T. Fischer & Associates, Inc. Mittelbusher served as the Assistant Chief Architect for the Chicago office of the Federal Housing Administration from 1940 to 1945. Howard Fisher was the founder of General Housing, Inc. and pioneered the development of pre-fabricated housing. He served as the director of the development board of industrial housing for the National Housing Agency in 1946-1947. In short, this development was designed by people skilled at working within a bureaucracy.


Damen-Ridge Garden Apartments, 1946.  Perspective view from Ridge looking Northwest.

The project itself consists of eight two-story brick veneer buildings with hipped roofs arranged around green inner courts. The outer courts accommodate parking areas. The buildings are a restrained version of the Colonial Revival, with modern touches, such as concrete sun shades on the first floor corners and entrance stairs illuminated with large glass block windows. They were constructed as a combination of 4 and 5 room rentals. This project was initiated under the Veteran's Emergency Housing Program (VEHP), but between the time these buildings were planned and when they were completed the VEHP became functionally obsolete.

The Veterans Emergency Housing Program was developed and proposed by Wilson Wyatt, former mayor of Louisville, Kentucky, at the direction of President Truman. The initial goal was to create 2.7 million housing units within two years to serve veterans, many of whom returned to crowded conditions and shared housing situations. To accomplish this wartime price and wage controls were intended to be maintained and priority was given to housing development through a series of initiatives. The bill establishing the VEHP was signed into law in May of 1946.

Six months later Republicans took control of Congress and eliminated much of the economic controls, resulting in a sharp increase in costs in response to pent-up demands. The program had been responsible for over 1 million housing starts in 1946, but many stood half-constructed due to shortages of building materials. Soon a home that would have sold for $6000 in 1945 was priced at $8,000. This was at a time when many veterans were marrying and beginning a family. Rather than buy a home at an inflated price many chose to find rental housing. This is the era reflected by the buildings in West Ridge constructed specifically for the returning veterans.


2212-30 W. Farwell and 2213-31 W. Morse, 1946.

The construction of these brick buildings was advertised in the Chicago Tribune in November of 1946.  The architects and builders are listed as Charles and Arthur Schreiber, who established their firm in 1938 and later went on to design many modernist structures in the Southwest.  These 4 and 5 room rentals were intended to accommodate 74 veteran families.  They are similar to earlier courtyard buildings in the neighborhood, but with large sunken courts and parking along the alley.  The restrained details, portal windows, and limestone door surrounds suggest the Moderne style, which lent itself to construction on a budget. 

6102-6122 N. Hamilton, 1947.

In February of 1947 the Chicago Tribune published an article about these three buildings, which were constructed as cooperative housing for veterans and designed by architect Clarence Johnson. They're traditional in form and ornamentation, including decorative entrances, corner quoins, water tables and limestone details. These are located on wide lots but are quite shallow due to the cemetery immediately west. The cooperative ownership structure is unusual, and the article claims that this is one of Chicago's first cooperative apartment developments. Titles to these buildings were conveyed to a corporation, and each veteran buyer purchased shares of that corporation. Cooperative ownership was (and is) rare in Chicago, and has been largely eclipsed by condominium ownership. Of the three developments examined here, this is the only one which wasn't intended as a straight rental property.

While I don't intend this to be a comprehensive look at veteran's housing in Chicago (or even in West Ridge), it does provide some examples of the types of development which were feasible immediately following WWII. And in some ways it sets the stage for the suburban explosion of the 1950s, when affordable single family homes became widely available, changing the character of the American landscape.

Sources

1. The AIA Historical Directory of American Architects, 1956. Accessed online at http://communities.aia.org/sites/hdoaa/wiki/Wiki%20Pages/1956%20American%20Architects%20Directory.aspx
2. Chicago and Evanston Vet Apartment Units Approved. Chicago Daily Tribune; Sept. 8. 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. NA
3. Work Started on Three New Flat Buildings. Chicago Daily Tribune; Nov.10, 1946. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. 43
4. Finish Homes in Early Vets’ Co-op Project. Chicago Daily Tribune; Feb. 23. 1947. Accessed through ProQuest Historical Newspapers: Chicago Tribune (1849-1988). Pg. WA.
5. To Hear Only Thunder Again: America’s World War II Veterans Come Home. Mark D. Ellis. Lexington Books, 2001. Accessed through Google eBooks.
6. The Veterans Emergency Housing Program. William Remington. Law and Contemporary Problems, Vo. 12, No. 1, Housing (Winter, 1947), pp. 143-173. Accessed through JSTOR.

Rogers Park Telephone Exchange, 1622 W. Pratt

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The first telephone exchange in Rogers Park was established in 1903 in a rented space at the northwest corner of Lunt and Clark (now an immigration attorney's office).  Soon increasing demand and specialized equipment required a purpose-built structure. The Chicago Telephone Company contracted with the architecture firm of Holabird and Roche, which had already designed their buildings downtown and many smaller neighborhood exchanges.  Good examples of these remain throughout Chicago.
New technology has a tendency to make people uncomfortable.  One way to offset this discomfort is to create a traditional image to reassure the public.  Holabird and Roche was masterful at creating sturdy classical designs.  The Rogers Park Exchange is a simplified version of the Georgian Revival style.  And what could be less intimating than Georgian Revival? 



The building itself is reinforced concrete construction with Colonial brick and white Bedford stone trim.  Originally the entrance vestibule was pink Tennessee marble, but I haven't yet peered inside to find out if it's still there.  Note the addition of a fourth floor, along with substantial rear additions.  This was a part of the original design intent, and the foundation was built to accommodate another floor as needed.  The stone cornice was rebuilt, but it looks like it lost some detail in the process.


Adapted from a Google Aerial Photo

The L-shaped area emphasized in red is the original footprint of the building.  The area in blue was added in 1940.  The fire insurance maps are a bit vague on when the original portion received the additional floor, but judging from historic aerial photos it probably also happened in 1940.  In 1960 an additional floor was added to the blue portion, raising it from two stories to three.

The work force consisted of three supervisors, one clerk, one matron, and forty-nine operators.  Yes, that's right.  Matron.  And both day and night chief operators were women.  And those forty-nine operators?   Probably  young women.  At the turn of the century switchboard operator joined teacher and nurse as an acceptable occupation for middle-class women.  But there was an ongoing discomfort about the thought of professional young women working and living in the big city on their own.  The fear was that it would be too easy for these women to stray into... well... prostitution and drugs?  Several organizations opened boarding houses for working women, where they could enjoy communal activities and close supervision.  It's telling that the president of the Rogers Park Women's Club, Mrs. E.A. King, was in attendance for the opening ceremony. 

Read about the exciting 1914 ribbon-cutting ceremony here.

And I can't recommend enough Robert Bruegmann's book about Holabird and Roche, "The Architects and the City."

Also, read Jeanne Catherine Lawrence's, "Chicago's Eleanor Clubs: Housing Working Women in the Early Twentieth Century."

And just for fun, read "Wicked Nell:  A Gay Girl of the Town." (1878)